Sunny days are back! Sometimes. Sure it rains a bit more often in Spring but life is popping outdoors and Summer is on the way. Before you jump back on the bike there are a few things to check out so that your ride is fun and enjoyable. All of these DIY bike checks are easy to do but some require special tools to make adjustments. If you find an issue and are unsure, please come down and see us and we can help. Don’t forget you can do these checks any time – taking care of your bike is the gift that keeps on giving all year.
Wash
Give your bike a wash before the first ride so that your bike is looking fresh and you can keep a closer eye on the condition of your frame, fork and components. Dirt, mud and grime build up can hide problems that might come up in the middle of a ride. If you wash with a garden hose, do not use too much pressure and be sure not to point pressurized water at bearings in your wheels, headset, pedals and cranks. Same goes for the seals on any suspension forks, rear shocks and dropper posts. If in doubt, use a bucket of water and soft brush. A good bike wash solution and brush will make it easy to clean the surfaces of your bike without much scrubbing but also protect the plastics, rubber and metals on your bike. Stay away from heavy duty cleaners and truck washes that will be too aggressive on your bearings and seals and lead to expensive problems and parts replacement.
Tyre Check
Check your tyres are still in good shape and holding air. Check for any cuts, slices or damage in the tread area, sidewalls and at the tyre/rim junction. Pump them up and they should easily hold air for a week or more. If they don’t hold air or have a slow leak it might be time to replace your tube or put some sealant into your tyre (or tube). These days you can get sealant that is made for performance tubeless tyres AND for regular tubes. If you need help, we can assist you to get the right type. There is more info on tyre care in our Winter Tyre article.
Brake Check
Your brakes should easily slow you down and stop you in a short distance. If they have frayed cables, are hard to pull at the lever or make squealing, scraping or metal on metal sounds it’s probably time for a brake service and/or new brake pads. If you have hydraulic disc brakes you may need a brake bleed to flush any air bubbles or contaminants out of your brake lines to keep them running smoothly. For all disc brakes you should check your brake pads by taking the wheel out and inspecting the full surface of the pad. If they wear unevenly, sometimes one edge of the brake pad will look ok but the other side might be almost gone. See if your rotors are true or if they rub at certain points. Also check your brake lines. If they contact your frame, fork or suspension linkages, check for wear and tear on the inside edge, especially if you ride in muddy or sandy conditions.
Gears Check
Can you shift up and down the cassette easily and smoothly with no lagging or skipping? Do the shift levers move smoothly when you push them? Have you checked your chain for stretch recently? Ideally you need to change your chain before it gets beyond .5 otherwise you will accelerate wear on your cassette also. Chains are relatively cheap to replace if done regularly. If you wear your chain and cassette beyond .5 you will most likely need to replace both parts together or your chain will begin to skip and jump under load.
Bearing Check.
If you grab your wheel at the top and push it from side to side can you feel play in the hubs? If you put your front brake on and rock the bike forward can you feel a clunk or movement in the headset? If you move your crank side to side can you feel any movement? Do your pedals make a clicking sound when you put load on them? Do all these parts rotate in their normal directions smoothly and easily? If not they may need adjustment or new parts. If you have suspension, do you feel any unusual movement or play in the linkages or pivots if you lift your bike up with the wheels just off the ground and then drop it back down?
Bolts
All the bolts on your bike should be done up properly. Too tight and too loose are both bad. Crank bolts (especially left hand side – which has a left hand thread!) should be checked from time to time so they do not work loose and get damaged. For higher end parts, always use a torque wrench to tighten and check the manufacturers specifications for any bolt if you are unsure. Bolts in any rear suspension should be checked more regularly. If you are riding harder, like big days in the mountains, BMX tracks, Skatepark, bike park shuttle days or jumping, check even more frequently so nothing comes loose and gets dangerous. Some types of bolts need to be done up in a special order (like a stem faceplate) so check before you tighten them.
Suspension and Droppers
Most Suspension Forks, Rear Shocks and Dropper Posts need a clean and wipe down every ride and a proper service when due (Every 50 Hours Rockshox, 125 Hours Fox or at minimum, Yearly). Keeping the seals and sliding surfaces clean (and not using pressure washers) will help extend the life of your suspension. Servicing will replace the damping oils, bushings, o-rings and internal parts. Even if you do your own basic servicing and cleaning it’s still worth getting a professional to check everything periodically as they have the skills to diagnose more complex wear and tear issues that are not obvious to the home mechanic. We strongly recommend that you DO NOT service the internals of rear shocks in particular as they often have high internal pressures that require special training and equipment to work on.
Chain Lube
First clean the chain with a rag, paying the most attention the rollers between the links. Degreaser and chain cleaning machines can make this easy, particularly if it’s been a while since you last cleaned it or if you used a heavy wet style lube. You want to clean the inner surfaces as much as possible and get rid of any built up grease, oils, mud, dirt and sand. Keeping your chain clean between lubes really reduces wear and tear on your drivetrain as the dirt and grit can get forced into the chain and accelerate wear. Hose off any excess degreaser, wipe the chain dry and you are ready to re-lube. The best lubes are suited to the conditions you ride in. Wet lubes work much better in wet and dirty conditions and last the longest. Dry lubes are much cleaner and are ideal for dry and dusty conditions. If not sure there are a number of all conditions lubes that work somewhere in the middle. Add lube all the way around the chain on the inside edge along the chain rollers. Once the chain is lubed you can wipe off any excess off the outside of the chain.
If you need any assistance or would like a safety check, please drop your bike in and see our professional mechanic who can assess it and make sure it’s safe to ride. We can also do general servicing, repairs and parts replacement and upgrades. We want you to love your bike so leave it with us and we can get you back out there.
